1868-1887 Traveling Bustle
Bustle. Tournure. Paniers. These words were interchangeable during this period, although the most common term, bustle, was considered mildly rude. Those in the know preferred to say “tourmure”.
For much of the 1870’s and 1880’s, the shape of the dress was determined by the strength of the bustle. A soft, drooping bustle gave a sloping, gentle silhouette. A stiff, layered bustle gave a sharp, aggressive outline. Many of these bustles were made of simple cloth.
Such a bustle could be pure misery to travel with. It might be covered with ruffles or box pleats, easily crushed in the suitcase wherein it too up way too much space.
So, a bustle which traveled easily evolved. It packed nice and flat or in a roll, and it took up very little space. This is the bustle that is recreated in this pattern.
The original was called a “Stiff Lace Bustle” in the October 7, 1871 issue of Harper’s Bazaar. Some of the original instructions were: “This bustle consists of four overlapping pieces, in the outer edges of which coarse cotton cord is hemmed. Cut a double layer of stiff lace four pieces. Hem cord into the outer edges, the top excepted, baste the pieces on each other at the upper straight edge, sew them into the double material of a shirting binding an inch wide, and gather them by means of linen tape drawn through the binding. The ends of the tape are tied in front. This bustle can be washed easily.” Personally, I have never met lace strong enough to hold up the draperies of even a moderate dress, so I recommend crinoline or any other heavily sized or starched light weight muslin or canvas.
In 1869, it was usually worn over a cage crinoline (sometimes now known as a hoop skirt). From 1879 to 1881, only one or two layers of fairly limp fabric layers would be worn, if a bustle was worn at all. In the late 1880’s it might be worn alone, or over a cage bustle for a more aggressive, fashionable effect.
Under the bustle, a woman would wear a chemise, open drawers, a short petticoat, and a corset. Over it she would wear a second petticoat, a corset cover, and the normal layers of outer dress, such as an underskirt, an overskirt, and a basque or polonaise.
We offer this pattern on our website along with most of the Mantua-Maker patterns.
It is The Mantua-Maker No. 1870-2