The pockets of the past are nothing like today’s ladies’ pockets. Modern ladies’ pockets are just like men’s pockets and are sewn into the garments. But it was very different back then. From the 17th to the 19th centuries the pockets served a similar purpose to a handbag of today.
Pockets were worn underneath the petticoats and usually worn in pairs. For those who remember the pocket like bag that held grandma’s clothes pins until she hung the washing on the line, this is as close as it gets to that.
Underneath a ladies petticoat (skirt) she wore two layers of undergarments- a shift then an under-petticoat. The pocket was tied around the ladies waist, in between her under-petticoat and petticoat.
So the question is…how did you get your hands into your pockets?
There were so many layers on top, so how did you get your hand into your pockets? The petticoats had openings in the side seams so you could put your hands through and reach your pocket. This made the pocket accesssible but invisible.
So what did women keep in their pockets?
Women kept a wide variety of things in their pockets. In those days people often shared bedrooms and household furniture that a pocket was sometimes the only private, safe place for small personal possessions. Certainly a handkerchief and money would be likely carried in a pocket.
Theresa Tidy, in 1819, wrote a list of essentials for a pocket:
“It i also expedient to carry about you a purse, a thimble, a pincushion, a pencel, a knife and a pair of scissors, which will not only be an inexpressive source of comfort and independence, by removing the necessity of borrowing, but will seure the privilege of not lending these indispensable articles.”
Other useful things found in pockets were keys, spectacle, a watch and pocket books. This information comes from diaries of the day.
Objects of Vanity
Items for personal grooming like a mirror, scent bottle, snuffbox (yes that is right…ladies used snuff too) and comb were often carried in pockets.
According to the Female Spectator of 1745, the editor Eliza Haywood gave advice on the use of snuff and scent:
‘The snuffbox and smelling-bottle are pretty trinkets in a lady’s pocket, and are frequently necessary to supply a pause in conversation, and on some other occasions. But whatever virtues they are possessed of, they are all lost by a too constant and familiar use. And nothing can be more pernicious to the Brain, or render one more ridiculous in Company, than to have either of them perpetually in one’s hand.’
Food?
Believe it or not, a pocket was a useful place to carry food. In 1812 a man, James Henry Leigh Hunt wrote a collection of essays which included the description of an ‘old lady’ and the contents of her pockets.
‘In one is her handkerchief, and any heavier matter that is not likely to come out with it, such as the change of sixpence. In the other is a miscellaneous assortment, consisting of a pocket-book, a bunch of keys, a needle-case, a spectacle-case, crumbs of biscuit, a nutmeg and grater, a smelling-bottle, and, according to the season, an orange or apple, which after many days she draws out, warm and glossy, to give to some little child that has well behaved itself.’
It just keeps getting more interesting.
Bonbon Box, Cakes and Even a Bottle of Gin
In 1849 a story, Granmama’s Pockets, tells about the contents of a little girl’s grandmothers pockets,.
‘ Annie had often longed to peep into them, but was afraid. She knew their contents were numerous, and very tempting. Amongst them was a large silver bon-bon box, with a puzzle top to it – and a cup and ball, which she was permitted to play with when she was very good.’
In the novel by Charles Dicken’s called The Personal Histoty of David Copperfield, the young hero is sent away from home by his cruel stepfather. Peggotty, his nurse (nanny), bade him farewell:
‘Releasing one of her arms, she put it down in her pocket to the elbow, and brought out some paper bags of cakes which she crammed into my pockets, and a purse which she put in my hand, but not one word did she say.’
And now for the bottle of gin…
Tess of the D-Ubervilles, the 1891 novel by Thomas Hardy has a heroine who becomes so destitute that the only work she can find is on a turnip farm. Her companion, Marian, carries a bottle of gin in her pocket:
‘ Marian’s will had a method of assisting itself by taking from her pocket as the afternoon wore on a pint bottle corked with white rag, from which she invited Tess to drink. Tess’s unassisted power of dreaming, however, being enough for her sublimation at present, she declined except the merest sip, and then Marian took a pull herself from the spirits. ‘I’ve got used to it,’ she said, ‘and can’t leave it off now. ‘Tis my only comfort.’
The Buying, Making and Losing of Pockets
Many pockets were made by hand and many were given as gifts. They could be made to match a petticoat. Some were made from recyled old clothes or fabrics. ‘Ready made” pockets were also available.
But….many pockets were stolen- in the 18th and 19th centuries , thieves known as ‘PICKPOCKETS’ snatched mens walled and cut the strings of womens pockets.
When Pockets Went out of Fashion
In the 1790’s womens fashions changed dramatically. Wide hoops and full petticoats went out of style. The new dresses had a high wasitline and skirts fell closer to the body and legs. Traditional pockets and the things in them ruined the line of the dresss and the drape of the fabric. As a result, women began to use reticules, decorative ags and such designed to be carried over the arm…just like modern day handbags.
REticlues were fairly small and barely held a hankie and money, let alone a mirror, watch, keys, needlecase and things that a pocket usually contained.
So, now a solution to this problem came about…..
Finding another place for a pocket
Well the obvious place was built into the seam of a skirt or dress…so ladies then had both this new pocket as well as their reticule. And, we are still using this plan today. Pockets as part of our garment and a purse!